As you know I like to take a walk along the beach but hadn’t been for a few days an
d people where telling me about the ‘Red Tide’ and how it had affected the beaches so I decided I just had to go and have a look. The pictures show how bad it can be, I thought it was bad when I had took the pictures of the blowfish but this was worse thousands (if not 10’s of thousands) of fish washed up on the beach. Most of the fish where between 6 to 8 inches but now and again, a larger one had been left on the shore. I believe that the ‘Red Tide’ is when an red algae blooms out at sea and starves the sea of oxygen thus killing the fish, I’m sure somebody out there can tell me if I’m right or wrong, I took one picture of what could be some of the algae but of course I could be completely wrong.http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/TheRedTide#Hash
If you have been reading this blog (and if not, why not) for some time you will know that me and India joined the Jebel Hash House Harriers. Just to refresh your memories it’s a walking/running club that has a good social life as well. Last Saturday was really good, the walk wasn’t too taxing and we met new people, a couple from Amsterdam who are on holiday and 2 others who are working here as well. Anyway we joined in the fun (by the way you are made to sit on the bath of ice for any misdemeanours or sins that are reported or for anything else that can be made up on the spot!). India volunteered as a ‘Trolly Dolly’ (that is someone who helps with the cleaning of the clubs dinking cups etc). The pictures show some of the new members and other members who have returned or met some special point in their memberships, drinking to a count from the rest of us. Found out that when you get to 10 walks/runs the club chooses a name for you. When you think that some people are called ‘Where the F*** are we’, ‘Friendly with goats’ and other nicknames you can guess I’m dreading what they are going to call me!
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/JebelHash#
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/JebelHash#
Ok so we broke up on Wednesday afternoon, so what have I been doing since then?
Well on Wednesday night it was choir practice and it went well. We have been given quite a schedule for over the Christmas Season, as although the Omani people don’t observe the Christian festival as such they do like to join in with the festival atmosphere and of course there is a very large Christian population here, from all over the world. Most shops have some form of Christmas decorations up and sell everything from Christmas trees to advent calendars; some are even playing Christmas carols/songs as you go around shopping. First booking is for this Saturday at the British School of Muscat for a carol service.
Thursday morning was an early start as we had a full day planned. Brian and Linda’s daughter, Jen, is here for a bit of a holiday and they wanted to show her some of the places that they had been to and had asked myself, Lucy and Donald if we would like to make a party of it….of course we said yes!
So we left about 9.30 on Thursday morning to travel to the ‘Turtle Camp’ near Sur about 300 Kilometres away (just under 190 miles for those of you who are not familiar with the metric system yet) but first Brian was going to lead us to a few places of interest.
First call.
After a very picturesque drive we arrived at Al Mudayrib, this town is surrounded by 7 forts and as you can see from the photographs is not that far from the desert properly as you can see the massive sand dunes on the horizon. We had a look around a couple of the forts which are really just ruins at the moment but this was real ‘off the beaten track t
ourism’ as nothing has as yet been put in place to entice the tourists to this area, although there is signs that the tourist board have things planned as there is a small museum (closed). Anyway, Donald, Lucy and I climbed up to the fort in the town, near where we parked. 2 Omani lads showed us the way for no other reason than we were visitors (the Omani people can be very friendly and hospitable) when we went to climb up inside the tower they tried to show us the way with lights from their mobile phone but it was really pitch black and quite scary as the steps where of uneven height so you had to be careful (Lucy decided to stay at the bottom as she felt a little claustrophobic). The little bit of terror was worth it though as there was a brilliant view over the town and wadi after which it is named.After we came down we joined the rest of the gang as we walked up the back alleys towards the tower that is on the highest hill behind the town. And that’s another thing about this country you can feel safe here even when your off the beaten path as you don’t get hassled from the locals, that will greet you or wave but don’t crowd you or make you feel threatened in any way, but woman and girls should have a male with them as it is a male oriented country. We climbed up to the highest tower, which was quite a climb as there is no prepared path or steps so it is pure rough and ready ground. Again as you can see from the pictures, fantastic scenery and views over the town.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/AlMudayrib#
Wadi Bani Khalid
Our next stop was quite spectacular; a fresh water desert oasis surrounded by palm trees and of course, mountains. I had forgotten to pack my bathers otherwise I would have been diving in, the water looked that inviting. The water was crystal clear with loads of fish swimming around (how they got there don’t ask me!), in the picture where I am sitting down the water is a dark blue it is that deep, the locals where calling us to come in and where showing off by jumping from the cliffs into these deep pools.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/WadiBaniKhalid#
And then on to the Ras Al Jinz ‘Turtle Camp’. After a little adventure (a couple of wrong turns, again a big thanks to local Omanis who showed us the way by driving in front of us to show us the direction), we arrived just in time for dinner and just in time to miss a bit of a down pour which had left the ground very wet! Not seen any real rain since I got here! Accommodation is basic with the sleeping huts being just like wooden tents, which have rushes attached to them to soften their outline. Our huts had 3 single beds in them with mattresses, pillows and blankets all supplied. There was several shower/toilet blocks but again very basic.
Dinner was served in an open sided reed roofed thatched area, which had not escaped the rain, but the chairs and table we were to sit at had been dried and cleaned for us. There was only another 2 parties at the camp at the same time so it was a bit intimate. The meal was Roast Lamb, Grilled Chicken, salads, rice, humus, lentils, roast potatoes, Arab bread and fruit, coffee, tea or soft drinks. You could have as much as you liked so Donald stoked up a few times! We also had some beer with us so had a can and Donald had brought some Tequila so I had to have one, didn’t I!? Linda had brought some red wine, so I had to have some of that as well! After dinner we sat and talked for a while then got ready to go to the Turtle Beach Research Centre.
Ras Al Hadd Turtle Beach.
The research centre is government run and a tour costs 4 Rials but can be very rewarding. You are taken by a guide to the beach, which is a good 15 20 minute walk. On approaching the beach our guide stopped us and explained what the research institute was doing which is basically protecting the turtles hatching ground. He gave us some information on breeding habits and lifespan of the ‘Green’ turtle. We were also told that no flash photography (or even torches) was allowed on the beach, that we needed to be quiet in order not to alarm the females who had come ashore to lay their eggs.
He then took us to see a female who seemed to be digging a hole ready for laying her eggs. The turtle was big, I mean BIG. The shell was close to 3 foot long from behind her head to her tail and she was sweeping sand almost 8 to 10 feet behind her. After about 15 minutes the guide told us that in fact she had already laid her eggs about 3 feet behind the hole that she was digging and the hole was in fact a decoy to put predators off the mark of where her eggs actually where. The hole by this time was 2 to 3 foot deep and the turtle started the crawl out of it, heading for the sea. We watched her make her way in to the surf, she seemed to be very slow, as if she was extremely tired, or perhaps that was how I felt she would be feeling. We where then taken to see a female who had just come up the beach to lay her eggs but on the way the guide spotted a hatchling breaking the surface of the sand and too us to show the new born turtle to us. We then carried on to where the female was preparing her hatching hole, the guide took us away before the actual laying, which I felt was right, to give the turtle a little privacy. Although we only saw 2 turtles on the night we were told that on some nights you could see many turtles making their way up the beach to lay their eggs or making their ponderous way back to the sea after a job well done.
We then returned to the camp (around 11ish) for as much sleep as we could get as we were to return first thing in the morning (between 5 and 6).
The research centre is government run and a tour costs 4 Rials but can be very rewarding. You are taken by a guide to the beach, which is a good 15 20 minute walk. On approaching the beach our guide stopped us and explained what the research institute was doing which is basically protecting the turtles hatching ground. He gave us some information on breeding habits and lifespan of the ‘Green’ turtle. We were also told that no flash photography (or even torches) was allowed on the beach, that we needed to be quiet in order not to alarm the females who had come ashore to lay their eggs.
He then took us to see a female who seemed to be digging a hole ready for laying her eggs. The turtle was big, I mean BIG. The shell was close to 3 foot long from behind her head to her tail and she was sweeping sand almost 8 to 10 feet behind her. After about 15 minutes the guide told us that in fact she had already laid her eggs about 3 feet behind the hole that she was digging and the hole was in fact a decoy to put predators off the mark of where her eggs actually where. The hole by this time was 2 to 3 foot deep and the turtle started the crawl out of it, heading for the sea. We watched her make her way in to the surf, she seemed to be very slow, as if she was extremely tired, or perhaps that was how I felt she would be feeling. We where then taken to see a female who had just come up the beach to lay her eggs but on the way the guide spotted a hatchling breaking the surface of the sand and too us to show the new born turtle to us. We then carried on to where the female was preparing her hatching hole, the guide took us away before the actual laying, which I felt was right, to give the turtle a little privacy. Although we only saw 2 turtles on the night we were told that on some nights you could see many turtles making their way up the beach to lay their eggs or making their ponderous way back to the sea after a job well done.
We then returned to the camp (around 11ish) for as much sleep as we could get as we were to return first thing in the morning (between 5 and 6).
Needless to say I overslept, but we still got to the centre by about 6 am. We then walked down to the beach. As we approached the beach we could see a group of people gathered together and went see what it was they where watching. Then we saw them, baby turtles making a brave dash for the ocean! It was a great thing to see, and the children who where with their parents where in their element (even ‘helping’ the baby turtles to the sea, whether this w
as allowed the guide didn’t say!). As the sun rose we could clearly see the seagulls waiting to snatch the unlucky or unwary turtle as they started their long swim of 3 miles to deep water where they would be safe. As the sun came up I was looking around and saw a disturbance in the sand not far from me, and then they came, baby turtle after baby turtle, all about the same size but some darker or with different patterns on their shells. This in itself, made the trip worthwhile!
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/RasAlHaddTurtleBeach#
as allowed the guide didn’t say!). As the sun rose we could clearly see the seagulls waiting to snatch the unlucky or unwary turtle as they started their long swim of 3 miles to deep water where they would be safe. As the sun came up I was looking around and saw a disturbance in the sand not far from me, and then they came, baby turtle after baby turtle, all about the same size but some darker or with different patterns on their shells. This in itself, made the trip worthwhile!http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/RasAlHaddTurtleBeach#
When we returned to the camp we had breakfast and made ready to leave. The camp accommodation, plus all meals had only cost 18 Rials, which, all in all, I thought was a great deal for us! Would recommend the experience to anyone who is coming out here, either to work or on a holiday!
On the way back we called at Sur, just to have a quick look and take a few pictures. A very picturesque place and the only place I’ve seen, up till now, where there are actual working dhows.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/Sur#
On the way back we called at Sur, just to have a quick look and take a few pictures. A very picturesque place and the only place I’ve seen, up till now, where there are actual working dhows.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Lezmcg54/Sur#
Well that completes my first adventure of this Eid. Tomorrow I am singing with the choir as I have already said and then off on another adventure to Salalah. Salalah is about 1000 km down south, me and Donald are going by bus! Hope to update, with the full story by Wednesday, so don’t forget to come back!
